11 replies
  1. Darkemeralds
    Darkemeralds says:

    As a long time seamster, I am in AWE of you right now. I ‘ve made some tricky and demanding things, but jeans? That fit so beautifully? With hand topstitching? That’s just amazing. Congratulations on the fantastic process and outcome.

  2. Heather Lou
    Heather Lou says:

    I have so much to say I don’t even know where to start. first of all……


    Second of all, I am seriously bowing down to your handsewing skills. That is fricking crazy. Like, caps off all the way. Thirdly, if you have a triple thread stitch, that could eliminate your topstitching woes. It basically sews a regular stitch three times so it LOOKS like thicker thread.

    And I am full supportive of you getting a new machine. Graduating to a higher end model really takes your projects and confidence up a new level.

    And lastly, I think we have a mutual friend! My pal Sarah Fobes knows you somehow I think.

    • Jasika Nicole
      Jasika Nicole says:

      Oh my gosh you know Sarah Fobes?!?!?! Well, I don’t know her in real life, she is just my online imaginary friend who I internet stalk at every chance…I think Sarah and I have some mutual friends somewhere down the line and we have the same taste in opinions and hunky babes.
      Thank you for your lovely compliments, your thread advice, your attention to detail in your projects, your awesome style and aesthetic, and your thumbs-up to a new machine. I am long overdo, I just needed a push in the right direction. So much love and appreciation to you and your work, I am forever a fan!!!

  3. Heather Lou
    Heather Lou says:

    Thanks lady! That’s so lovely to hear, especially after I discovered the new Gomi troll “blog” that sent me into a “why are women such monsters to each” rage spiral last night.

    Ahem. New machine-wise, if you’re trying to be budget conscious but want a beast, I highly suggest ebay hunting a vintage 70s Bernina. I am particularly obsessed with the 830 and the 930. They sew like elegant tanks, and if you’re lucky you’ll find one with all the feet.

    And Fobes is the absolute best. If you and the wife ever make it to Montreal, we’ll show you a good time.

  4. B.
    B. says:

    These are SO good!

    A commercial seamstress friend told me that the lesson jeans taught her was to topstitch upside-down (with the thick gold thread on the bobbin, like how you put the elastic on the bobbin when you’re shirring). I have not had an opportunity to try it out yet because I am still too scared of DENIM and the ZIPPER FLY and RIVETS, but maybe it will be useful to you!

    • Jasika Nicole
      Jasika Nicole says:

      Thank you so much! I think it’s totally okay that we don’t know each other, this being the internet and all…constructive criticism and compliments always welcome from strangers 🙂 Thank you for reading!

  5. Vervliest und Zugenaeht
    Vervliest und Zugenaeht says:

    Wow, great post and an awesome pair of Jeans!

    I have the same gaping waist issues and am so glad, that you showed me, that it is safe to take out a big wedge in the yoke. Did your yoke seams come out all wavy at the beginning? I steamed a lot now, and it seams to have fixed the problem.

    Now I am kind of confused as how to draft the waistband, since my yoke parts are much shorter at the seam where the waistband is joined. And the waistband is supposed to be cut out on the fold. How did you do that? You mentioned you had to cut it out several times, I want to avoid that, not much fabric left 😉

    Would love to hear from you!!
    Best, Nina

    • Jasika Nicole
      Jasika Nicole says:

      Hi, Nina 🙂
      I actually just made this adjustment on a different jeans pattern yesterday and now I wish I had taken pictures so you could see the way my waistband is adjusted. Heather’s Jeans Making E-Book and her sew-along which is posted on her site also shows you how to do this step, but not in much detail. I will see if I can explain it so it makes sense.
      So now that you have successfully cut out a wedge from your yoke, that wedge will be extending into the waistband. Your new waistband will have a deep curve in it and will look like more like the shape of a “U” than it does now. I cut out a copy of my waistband piece onto scrap paper so that I could manipulate the new pattern piece but still have the original piece for reference. I made a cut into my waistband pattern piece extending from the wedge I cut out of my yoke and I sliced the paper almost all the way up to the top of the pattern piece, but I left a tiny piece still connected so that the piece isn’t cut into two. Then I slid the cut part of the pattern piece over the other side of the pattern piece so that some of the paper is overlapping- it essentially looks like a dart wedge or a pizza slice with the paper still connected at the top. Overlap the paper to approximately equal the measurement that you removed from your yoke pieces, so if you took about 1″ of width at the top of your yoke piece, the overlap of your waistband pattern piece should be 1 inch on the bottom and then taper to nothing where the pattern piece is still connected (you don’t have to keep the pattern piece connected at the top, it just helps me retain the shape of the piece more, but you might find it easier to slice through the whole piece of paper and then manipulate your pattern pieces that way. Once you are happy with the width taken out of the pattern piece, you can put a piece of tape on the paper so that it retains its new shape. By taking out all that width, you will have changed the actual length of the pattern piece, and that still needs to be equal to the yoke piece. So I trace my manipulated pattern piece onto new paper, this time with curved edges (your taped pattern piece will have angles in it from the “dart” you made, and those edges need to be curved) and I add back the length taken out of the pattern piece by using my ORIGINAL pattern piece to compare it to by simply extending the lines of the edge so that they are the same length (you will be adding length to the side of the pattern piece that is NOT cut on the fold).
      Since you don’t have much fabric left, I would just make the adjustments on some scrap fabric if you have any that is a similar weight to your denim (canvas or twill or something), stay stitch the top edge of your jeans so they don’t stretch out with all the fit testing you are doing, and then baste the scrap waistband onto your jeans to make sure the fit is right. If all is well, move onto your denim and lining fabric if you are using it, and if not, keep testing on scrap fabric til you get it right. Everytime I make this adjustment on my patten pieces, it works out perfectly from the first try so hopefully you will have that luck, too! I hope this helps! Keep me posted on how your jeans turn out!


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