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Kalle Shirt

I initially thought I would only make the Kalle shirt dress from the Closet Case pattern when it came out (as seen here), but as soon as I saw the photos of the model in the white cropped Kalle shirt, I was obsessed with that look, too. This is not a silhouette I wear often, if at all. Cropped, loose, AND boxy?? Goes against everything I thought to be true about my body and what “looks good” on it. But I’m sure I don’t have to remind you that I am challenging those notions. And why shouldn’t I? The shirt is an amazing design, and I haven’t seen a pattern quite like it before.

That low hem in the back, while too dramatic in the fugly McCalls dress I made, looks really chic and fun in the Kalle shirt, and I love the option of the low, rounded collar design with it. I also like that it’s structured while simultaneously providing some party in the overall silhouette. The whole garment looks unique and cool, one of those tops that I would find in an expensive boutique when I shopped RTW and want to buy for myself, but would ultimately decide against, nervous that the look was too hipster for my tastes.

I had a white printed cotton in my stash from LA Finch Fabrics that I knew would look perfect in the design, but I am sure this was due in no small part to the fact that the sample of the shirt in the pattern photos was also made from a white, crispy, stable material (what can I say? I’m a sucker for inspiration photos!). I had no idea if I would like wearing it or not, but I had to give it a try, and I’m really glad I did because I think it came out great. Unfortunately you can’t see the subtle design of the fabric very well in these photos, but it has a pastel colored abstract line drawing that spans across the yardage, providing just enough color to make it interesting, but not too much to detract from the cool lines of the pattern.

I just barely eeked out the pieces for this pattern from my two yards of fabric and I did a pretty crappy job of pattern matching because I didn’t have much wiggle room. I also neglected to true my fabric before I started cutting out my pattern pieces (lazy!), so the back piece, which was cut on the fold, is just a tiny bit slanted. It isn’t super obvious to anyone but me, probably (story of my sewing life), and thankfully the subtlety of the print helps hide it, too.

I made some weird mistakes when constructing the hidden placket of my Kalle Shirtdress but maybe since I used the regular button band option on this top, which I have much more experience with, it came together like a breeze. I really like the bottom facing used on this blouse- it encompasses the entire hem of the shirt and gives the hem a little bit of weight to make it fall beautifully, while also giving it a polished-looking finish. So far I love pairing this top with my Morgan/ Ginger Mash-up Jeans and also my Flint shorts, but I have a feeling that it would look really fantastic with a fitted knit pencil skirt, too, which I don’t actually have in my closet. I tried the Colette stretch fabric mini skirt pattern a few years ago and it fit so poorly that I didn’t even know what to do to make adjustments to it, but I am a more advanced sewist now, so maybe I could figure it out? I’m pretty “meh” about Colette sewing patterns for my body though, so I would also be interested in hacking the Nettie dress and bodysuit by Closet Case into a skirt and just adding a waistband to it since that pattern is such a great fit for me.

As far as the other details of the make, I love them all just like I love them in the dress I made; loose, easy-fit kimono sleeves, roomy fit in the bust and belly, and a length that works perfectly for my particular height and taste- this top just barely grazes my midriff so it doesn’t make me feel too exposed. It’s easy to alter the overall length of this pattern to your own preferences, though.

All in all a really fantastic pattern from Close Case that I am loving and interested in making again! I would love to see what this blouse would look and feel like in a less sturdy fabric, like a rayon or silk, and LA Finch Fabrics gifted me a gorgeous cut of black tencel recently, which is buttery smooth and rich to the touch that I think would look fantastic in this silhouette. I don’t make very many garments out of black fabric unless it’s used as an accent or it’s color blocked, so this would be a nice push out of my comfort zone, which I am really into lately. But I also already know what I would want to pair with it- I have a beautiful wool tweed pencil skirt that I made years ago that would look great with black, but would also look great with the shape of this loose blouse! I will probably go with the standard collar on this version just to mix it up a bit and I am already convinced that it would be a fierce looking ensemble. Consider it bumped up on the TO MAKE list!

More Flints

I’m not sure if I have ever made as many versions of a pattern in quick succession as I have the Flint pants/shorts deisgn by Megan Nielsen. I made them up the first time shortly after the pattern had been released and had arrived in my mailbox (I already had my pretty cotton silk from The Fabric Store washed and waiting), and I wrote about them here. The pattern was a huge success- the fit was spot on with very minor adjustments (I think I took about 3/8 inch of fabric out of the waistline and graded down to nothing at my high hip), the wide leg was comfortable and didn’t make me feel like I was swimming in fabric, and I loved the unique closure of the design- although the left side pocket is essentially not very useful since it remains open on the inside of the pants, it means that the design doesn’t need a zipper. Instead, the pants close with either a tie or a couple of buttons. I’ve seen this design element in vintage clothing before and I love that Megan Nielsen updated the silhouette a bit while keeping the interest of the side closure as is.

Flint pattern photo from envelope

For my second pair I was hoping to recreate the look of the design on the pattern envelope- the pants are made from a bleached looking denim that looks very soft and flowy. I chose a denim from The Fabric Store that had a similar color but ignored the stiffer hand it had- I figured that the denim was lightweight enough that I could wash it and it would look floaty just like in the photos. I was totally wrong, and annoyed with myself for not knowing better. When I completed the pants and tried them on, the fabric was stiff and barely moved, and it made me look like I had put on cardboard pants. Obviously not the look I was going for. But all was not lost! In a last minute attempt to save the garment, I chopped the legs off mid thigh at the cutting line on the pattern that separates the shorts from the pants, and now they look fantastic.

The stiff denim works really well for shorts, I think- it helps them maintain their silhouette, they don’t wrinkle quite as much as a softer, drapier fabric would, and they look a bit like sailor pants- which is why I decided to mirror the buttons on the right side of the shorts. I am pretty sure that Megan Nielsen shared this button look on her instagram account which is what gave me the idea. I had cute red buttons that looked really nice with the light colored denim but I didn’t want to take the sailor analogy TOO literally (I’ve never really been a fan of red/white/blue combos in my clothing), so I opted for these vintage pale peach ones I found at an antique store last year. I am in love with the soft, beachy look they lend to the shorts- it makes me think of seashells on the seashore.

Aside from using the button closure on this version of the design, I also eliminated the release tucks at the front of the pants to give a smoother line from waistband to thigh. Megan Nielsen posted an easy-t0-follow tutorial on her blog about how to create darts out of those tucks although I somehow managed to make mine very long? Despite, I swear, following the instructions to a T?? Whatever, I totally don’t mind the length of the darts as they are barely noticeable and actually make the shorts look like they are made of panels, which is pretty cute.

Ok, so YAY, shorts! Good save with a chop off of the pants legs, and I absolutely love how cute and fun they are- I get so many compliments when I wear them! But wait, what about the dream pants version that I still have yet to make out of a flowy, looser kind of fabric that drapes over my frame and mirrors the pants from the pattern front? What about those guys??

Well I made those guys, too! This time out of a coffee colored cotton linen from…where else? Your favorite place and mine, THE FABRIC STORE! They have an incredible selection of linen in their store pretty much year round in Los Angeles because it’s basically always linen weather here, and this bolt stood out to me because of it’s a neutral but with a visually interesting textured weave, and it’s super light weight. Of course, when I finished the garment and hung them in my closet, I discovered that the fabric is incredibly similar to the cotton linen I used for my Burda Wide Legged pants, blogged here. Coincidence? Probably not. I tend to keep neutral or darker colors on my bottom half when they are pants and in a shape I am not completely familiar with. It would be nice to step out of that habit, but I love how both pairs of pants came out, so if it ain’t broke…! Anyways, I figured these would be a nice fabric to make Flint in, especially for an LA summer (I hate wearing pants in the summer cause I get so hot but I also hate my legs burning in the sun and sticking to leather and plastic seats all the time, so I am hoping that this version finds a nice balance in the midst of the worst parts of 90 degree weather).

I released the tuck pleats again in exchange for the darts, kept them at the full pants length with a couple inches taken out of the thigh area to accommodate my shortness, and went back to the tie at the side waist. I made these, from start to finish, in one afternoon in my sewing room; easy breezy!

These have that coveted rumpled-but-still-put-together look I see certain people pull off all the time, those people that look like they have the busiest lives ever but still seem to manage to keep it all together. My life isn’t nearly that busy, but I do like throwing on an outfit that looks (and is) effortless. It just gives me more time to do what I got to do and then get back home and sew! When I first made this version of the Flint, I styled them all wrong. I tried to dress them up a little for my first wearing and I wore my lace-up espadrilles and a cap sleeved Burda top in pink, and it was just ALL WRONG. It looked too….mature, I guess is the best word. It probably doesn’t help that I wore this outfit to the mall on Mother’s Day, so I was surrounded by lots of other ladies in “mature” outfits, but it just wasn’t looking hip enough. I realized that I needed to keep these pants casual and pair them with other dressed down things. My current favorite top is this shark tank top in musician Jenny Owens Young’s online merch shop, you can find it and other cute tees, hats and tanks here!

Now I swear I’m done with the Flint! I have made every version I could possibly need for my closet at this point- a fancy pant, a casual pant, plus a dress-up-or-down-short, and I am very happy with them! According to instagram, Megan Nielsen has a new pattern to release in the next month or so and I am super excited to see what it is- will it become a wardrobe staple for me the way the Flint has?? How many “staples” can one have in their wardrobe before it becomes excessive, anyways? I. AM. TOEING. THE. LINE. But who cares; at least I will look good doing it 😉

Everyone’s OTHER Favorite Dress

McCall’s 6686 is another pattern that kept coming up on Pattern Review’s Favorite Make’s list, so I decided to give it a try and see what all the fuss was about. While it was A MILLION TIMES BETTER than this unfortunate make (which I have since adjusted in the yoke, length and hemline shape to make less horrific, but which, surprisingly, didn’t work at all, so now it’s been relegated to ‘house dress’ status) I wouldn’t say that I am in love with it. I’m kind of ‘meh’ about it, although I’m happy with the way it came out and I know that I will wear it again.

The fit needs more tinkering, even though I muslined the dress and made a bunch of changes to it already. Honestly I should have just stuck to my Closet Case Nettie dress, which I made once a couple of years ago and loved. The fabric I used was pretty cheap so the black color in my knit started looking gray and fuzzy immediately after its first washing and I didn’t get as much wear out of it as I had anticipated. But it’s a great design with some amazing options in terms of back and neck lines, and I already knew it fit me really well, so I can’t imagine why I bought this McCall’s pattern in the first place – I must have just forgotten how similar the silhouettes of these two pattern are (I don’t like having two of essentially the same pattern in my stash, so if I had remembered, I probably wouldn’t have purchased this one). I blame my lack of pattern organization for this little oversight, which is something I am VERY excited to say will not be happening anymore since I spent 16 hours over a recent weekend cataloguing every single pattern that I own! More on that in a future blog post…

Anyways, this dress. The fit just looks a little humdrum to me- it’s like, too baggy or something? I am not even into super tight body- con dresses, but this fit makes me feel like I am going to church (spoiler alert, I do not go to church- and if I did I probably still wouldn’t wear this). Thankfully, the dress is super simple and it’s a knit, so it won’t be difficult to tighten it up just a bit in the sides, and I might toy with either shortening it or having the dress taper in just a tiny bit above the knees. My big beef with pencil skirts is that they are normally drafted to fall straight down from the widest part of my hips and this dress is designed in the same way. I just don’t feel cute in that look! It’s very “Pam” from ‘The Office’, and I’m more of a toned-down Kelly Kapur. Weirdly I didn’t realize how off the fit was til I saw these photos of it; when I wore the dress in Vegas at Clexa Con a couple of months ago, I felt great in it! But that might have been my mind playing tricks on me. I kind of hate Vegas, and I couldn’t bear to spend an entire weekend in that weird den of smoke-filled lobbies while also hating what I was wearing- it would have been too much to contend with.

I can’t remember the size I made in this dress, and I actually did so much adjusting with the pattern pieces that it doesn’t matter anyways. I know I graded up to a bigger size in the hips, and then I had to take the whole dress in like 2 inches on either side because Big 4 always run gigantic on me. I used my coverstitch machine to attach bias binding on the necklines, sleeves, and bottom hem, and it worked beautifully. Some knits want NOTHING to do with the bias binding attachment on the CS, and others sop it up with a spoon! Because of the fabric, the bias binding cinched in the edges just a tiny bit, but I kind of like the effect.

 

The other thing I like about this dress is the fabric. I had never worked with a Liverpool knit before and I bought this one from LA Finch Fabrics , who stocks a lot of floral and abstract printed ones in gorgeous colors. Liverpool knits are pretty wonderful- the texture is super soft and spongy, but the fabric doesn’t feel heavy and it wears well. Because of it’s cloud-like texture I felt sure it was going to pill and snag easily, but I haven’t noticed anything yet. What I did notice is that the fabric holds smells in a very big way. I try to extend the life of my memades by not laundering them unless they have endured a spill or they smell bad, and I can usually go for several wears between washings with garments like dresses, but this one smelled stinky after just one day of wear.  I am assuming it’s because it has some polyester in it; in my experience, polyester fabric tends to get stinkier more quickly than natural fabrics. Anyways, this fabric works up so pretty in a dress and I imagine it would also look stunning in a wrap dress design (also, if you’re headed over to LA Finch online, check out their double polyester knits- I have made leggings and joggers with it and it’s amazing! Softest knit ever, both inside and outside, the elasticity holds up well after days of wear, and the colors have stayed vibrant through so many washings already!)

 

Man, as I’m writing this blog post, all I want to do is go find a cute knit fabric so that I can sew up a Nettie dress to add to my closet to replace that old one I got rid of. But I’ll wait a bit- my sewing queue is full and I am trying to focus on balancing out sewing with my other artistic endeavors over the summer since my spring/summer wardrobe isn’t lacking for much and I have some writing and other projects that I would really love to dig into. There are so many other things I love to spend my time doing-  drawing, woodworking, embroidery, pottery, writing- but sewing tends to take priority over all of them and I find myself wishing I had more time in the day to fit everything else in (although if I’m honest, I would probably just use those extra hours in the day to sew even more, hahaha!) If my home sewing is in part motivated by consuming less and being content with fewer choices that have bigger bang, then I am definitely in danger of my closet overflowing and I don’t want that to happen. #redcarpetDIY is an ongoing project that I am trying to build up, so I can always add more projects to that queue, but as far as having a fun, efficient summer wardrobe is concerned, I AM BASICALLY THERE- I don’t need much more! (Another awesome pro of my recent pattern organization was seeing very clearly how many wardrobe holes I have so I can fill them in without continuing to make more of things that I don’t need).

So, final thoughts on this pattern that everyone else seems to love? It’s just not for me. Which seems to be a trend! And a valuable lesson to learn- I don’t need to jump on the bandwagon just because everyone else is on it. Or, maybe I just need to find a different band wagon that’s headed more in the direction of where I like to go. If I ever find it I’m sure I’ll see a bunch of y’all bouncing around on the back, so save me a seat!